Step 06

The Benches

Bench design is where the sauna becomes yours — and where some of the most consequential functional decisions are made. Heights, depths, and structure all interact, and changing one affects the others.

[ Bench structure or finished bench photo ]

Heights

TierHeight AFFCharacter
Upper bench36–40″Hotter, closer to ceiling. My choice: 36″
Lower bench / step18–20″Cooler zone, serves as step-up. My choice: 18″

The step between tiers should be 18–20″ — comfortable to climb in a hot, humid environment. Always verify headroom at the upper bench position against your specific ceiling before fixing the height.

Depths

Intended useMinimum depthRecommended
Sitting only16″20″
Sitting + step-up18″20″
Sitting + lying down24″26–28″
A 20″ bench will not accommodate lying down

I went through several depth iterations before landing on 24″ for the main bench — wide enough for lying down, deep enough for real structural support from the beam-and-ledger system. Confirm your intended use before fixing the depth.

Structure — wall-to-wall beams on ledgers

After exploring legs, knee braces, and diagonal supports, I landed on wall-to-wall beams on ledgers. This is what I'd recommend to anyone building a custom bench:

Heater clearance

Cross supports must stop before the heater zone. In my build, the last cross support's outer edge sits exactly 65″ from the non-heater wall, leaving 27″ clear near the heater. Always follow your specific heater manufacturer's minimum bench clearance — typically 18–24″.

Seat slats

Clear cedar 1″ × 3½″ slats, running perpendicular to the beams. Leave small gaps between slats (approximately ¼″) for drainage and air circulation. No finish of any kind — bare cedar only. Blind-nail with stainless steel fasteners.

Enter your bench dimensions above

Based on one 2×6 beam and four 2×4 cross supports per bench. Adjust slat count to match your layout.